Ironman in Making

Ironman in Making
Target - Ironman Zurich 2016

Friday, February 19, 2016

Of Dhoklas and Kachoris!! Rajasthan Cycling Travelogue



Just as I was getting over my DC (Deccan Cliffhanger) hangover I started training for the Desert 500 race!! The aim is to dominate the Ultra racing scene in India. So I jumped at the opportunity when Divya offered me to join her for the recceing of the race route. It was going to be a week long road trip and I was concerned about my training. But Divya said we will be taking our bikes with us to do the 200 km brevet in Bhuj and cycle most of the D – 500 route.

The Team –
Divya Tate
Director of Desert 500 race. A 680 km race starting in Jodhpur, Rajasthan.
Jatin Kale –
Crew member and photographer of Team Saniya.
Vrunda Shete –
Crew member and photographer of team Apurv.

The Team before we left Pune


Day 1 – Pune to Ahmedabad
We left Pune on an afternoon and reached our first destination Ahmedabad at about 2.30 am. Stayed at my parents for the night.  It was on this first night that we had a taste of authentic Gujrati “Umbadiyo” (spicy vegetables steamed inside an earthen pot). So spicy yet so delicious. Later in Ahmedabad we had the traditional Fafda- Jalebi for breakfast thanks to my Dad. The carb loading had started even before the cycling started.

Umbadiyo


Day 2 – Ahmedabad to Bhuj
My parents joined us in this drive to Bhuj. It was here I got introduced to the stark countryside of Gujarat. No hills whatsoever for miles. Being from Pune where you are always surrounded by hills it was a strange feeling. We drove through some big salt pans. The weather even at high noon was surprisingly cool. I had mistaken the desert. By evening we reached Bhuj where we met some local cyclists and those from Baroda, Ahmedabad who had all gathered in Mr. Pathik Vachhani who had hosted them all. His huge maze of a house/mansion/haveli was accommodated the 20 odd cyclists with ease. All these cyclists had gathered for the 200 km BRM starting from Bhuj and ending in the historical town of Dholavira. My dad was going to join me in this ride.

Bike setup in the Haveli

Manjha getting ready for the Kite season in Bhuj


Day 3 – 200 KM BRM Bhuj to Dholavira
This is where the cycling started. This was going to be my first opportunity to go on a long ride with dad. So instead of going into my usual aggressive cycling mode I stayed back with Dad to enjoy the ride with him. It was a great idea, because then I really got to soak in the beauty of the country. We had started out in the dark before the dawn. I had heard that the deserts can get mighty cold in the nights but it was the first time I was getting to experience it. I regretted not having bought a jacket. After about 2 hours into the ride we saw the beautiful sun rising on the desert landscape. We even had a jackal cross the road in front of us. Everything was different from the usual countryside of Maharashtra that I’m used to. The cattle were bigger with huge horns, the birds were different, the terrain, the good roads, the crops in the farms, the villages, the villagers and their colourful dresses. It was a joy to experience all that. Me and Dad were making good time and were pretty much ahead of the field. The organizers of the event had stopped at about 140 kms in a village. There I had my first authentic Kachhi Dabeli. Obviously I couldn’t stop at one. After 3 of those big dabelis I was so full that had I not been riding slow I’d have had trouble to stay on the saddle. The last 30 km was where I was looking forward to. Dholavira is on an island surrounded by a shallow lake which during summer dries up into a white flat. To get to the island you have to go through this salt deposition. There’s even a BSF post on the island as this lake goes on into Pakistan, which is merely 50 kms further west.




Dad in front of the Salt flats

Salt Flats

Salt

Salt Flats

Crystals in Saline Pond

Saline Pond

At the end of the Ride

Interacting with the Locals

Our Cheerleaders

Our Cheerleaders



Capturing the Photographer

Jatin got the sun right on the Salt flat




Day 4 – Dholavira Exploration
The day after the 200 km ride I went for an early morning run. The trail was arid and sandy. But surprisingly there were a lot of water bodies around. I met and talk with a few local farmers who were as intrigued in me as I in them. On my way back I misjudged a mound of sand and twisted my left ankle. It was a bad one. Barely managed to crawl home. Even today i.e. a month after the tour my ankle still hasn’t recovered full mobility. We later on went on foot to explore the ruins of Dholavira. These ruins are the remains of the Harappan Civilization, who were one of the first settlers in the Indus Valley. It was sad to see such beautiful ruins in shambles and neglected by the government. According to our guide there are still a whole lot of ruins yet to be unearthed. After the ruins we proceeded to explore the fossil park right along the lake.
We were very hungry after all the exploring and were thankful that our guide invited to his house for lunch. How could we turn down an opportunity to eat authentic local food? The visit to his house provided a glimpse into the local culture itself. They were very hospitable and happy people. After that we set off in the car towards a village called Adesar which was the entry point to the Wild Ass Sanctuary.

The gateway to the Harappan Civilization

Royal Baths


Couldnt walk with a swollen ankle

Saline Lake

Saline Lake

Saline Lake


Shady

Royal Lunch at our Guide's house

Bajra Bhakri, Tomato Curry, Garlic Chutney, Buttermilk

Our Guide and his Bro

His Garden

Family Selfie

Our Host

Camping!!



Day 5 -   Wild Ass Sanctuary
After we set off from Dholavira we camped just off the highway near Adesar. I had my ankle swollen so wasn’t of much use in setting up camp. But the other were right upto the task. As we were setting up camp on someone’s field we had midnight visitors coming in with torches. The morning after we went straight into the sanctuary with a hired guide. If anyone is looking to go into the sanctuary make sure you get permission from the forest department and I recommend getting  a guide. Once inside we went off the road into the Rann. A vast expanse of nothingness with only the guide directing us. Soon we sneaked up on a horde of wild asses (which look very much like horses). They dint really like us and started running away from us and we chased them around for a bit. To be alongside a herd of running horses was really mesmerising. The guide then took us to an old diamond mine. After searching in vain for any stray diamonds we settled for some pretty looking stones.

Wild Asses in the Wild!!

Hunting some Wild ASS


The Nothingness!!

Bumming

If you are anywhere near Osiyan , Rajasthan this is the
 place to have the best Daal Baati

Sooooo Friggin Good!! DAAL BAATIII!!


Day 6 – Mt Abu, Rajasthan. 
The sanctuary marked our last day in Gujarat. We then headed towards Mt. Abu the first town in Rajasthan after crossing over from Gujarat. I was very excited to experience Rajasthan for the very first time. The drive there was very beautiful. Green lush fields welcomed us into the state. We even saw a wild boar strutting along the road. We had planned to camp along a lake in Abu but since we reached there pretty late at night we had to drop that idea and instead we camped on the top of the Abu hill on a camping ground. Had a great view from there the next morning. The weather was super cold. The host gave us nice hot ginger tea, which was so good that amongst the 3 of we finished their whole batch. I then got my bike out and decided to try my legs against the big Abu climb. I cycled all the way down to the base to begin my upward climb. Got the whole effort logged, strava shows me as second overall, if only I hadn’t stopped to click pictures. Divya went off riding towards Jodhpur. Meanwhile me with rest of the gang went all the way up to Gurushikhar the highest point in the Aravalis.

Mt. Abu

View from our Campsite!!

Climbed up the 30 Km ghat of Abu

Stunning Scenes all around

Looking down to Abu base

Cheerleaders egging me up the climb

At lake Nakki on the top. Its very commercialized up there. 

Climbing Abu 

Gurushikhar Peak. The highest point in Aravalis


Gurushikhar

Gurushikhar

Campsite

Gurushikhar


Day 7 – Jodhpur
I was eager to get to Jodhpur as I had heard so much about it. After camping straight for 3 days we got ourselves a hotel. We arrived fairly early to enjoy a great rooftop dinner at Pal Haveli. The dinner included the much talked Mutton dish of Rajasthan “lal Mass”. The next day we explored the Mehrangarh fort. This for looms threateningly over the whole city. Its big walls rising above everyone on a hill. It was even more intimidating once near its gates. I was totally awed by fierceness of the fort, now that’s something considering that I have been to most of the lofty forts of the Sahyadris. Later in the day we made our way to Bijolai Palace which was the start point of the Desert 500 race. Me and Divya set out to ride along the route. I ended up doing about 60 Kms till a town called Osiyan. After the Sunset we started hunting for camping sites on the way to Jaiselmer. It was hard finding the perfect camping site. We had to look for a place away from villages and hidden from the road.

Rooftop Dinner at Pal Haveli

Lal Maass 

Mehrangarh Fort 

Blue City Jodhpur 

The Kachoris should not be missed. 

From Mehrangarh

From Mehrangarh


It was really cold!!! 


The Main Town Square of Jodhpur

As I said one Kachori aint enough
Start of the Route Recce for Desert 500
Riding the Desert Scape

With the Race Director

Camping Grounds
Cold AF!!

Day 8 – Jaiselmer
Jaiselmer, the golden city of Rajasthan.  I was bowled over by this charming little town. Its stunning golden hues, smooth sandy dunes, yellow stone walls of Fort Jaisalgarh. And not to mention the amazing food we had there.   

Jaisalgarh

Golden Battlements!!
Golden Battlements!!

Ancient Architecture!
Its all legal here!!

Delights of the North!! Chana Bhatura

In India Peacocks Cross the Road!!

Day 9 – Ranau
After spending a day exploring Jaiselmer. Me and Divya went riding towards Ranau through some stunning desert landscapes. That night we camped on the Desert dunes. One of my most beautiful camping experiences. I got a firsthand experience on really how cold the desert gets at night. If not for the campfire nothing would have kept us warm. We were even joined by one of the locals at the fire. Many a stories were exchanged. Good times.

Riding on the Boder Roads!!

Camping on the Dunes!!

Had to huddle to stay warm
That Kept us Defrosted!!
Jatin the Entertainer!!
Local Company at Ranau!!
Dunessss!!!

Ranau!!

Day 10 – Jaiselmer-Nagaour – Ahmedabad - Baroda 
This was the last day of the trip. We drove all the way from Jaiselmer to Nagaur which was the D 500 route . Then made our way down south to Ahemdabad driving througout the night. We had one more stop to make before we went home. This time it was Baroda. The fair and kind cyclists of Baroda (The Cycling Club of Baroda) had invited Divya and me to conduct a seminar on ultra cycling. It was good to share our knowledge with them and we enjoyed their hospitality too. Kudos to Raghu Vishal, Raghvendra Jhala and Manisha Patel and the rest of the Baroda cycling community for entertaining us. Me and Divya even managed to get ourselves in the local Baroda tabloids. 


Back in Ahemdabad!! Thanks Mum for Hosting Us.  

Into the Tabloids We go!!

The Seminar!!